Highlights of Santa Fe, the oldest capital in the United States, include amazing art galleries, 17th-century landmarks and an out-of-town trip down the Rio Grande
By J.C. Thomas
For a first-time visitor arriving in Santa Fe, New Mexico, it doesn’t take long to sense that it’s a very special place. First impressions are dominated by the city’s distinctive architecture, its own Santa Fe style melding traditional Pueblo and Spanish mission characteristics. Careful regulation, especially within the city’s five historic districts, has ensured its earth-toned, flat-roofed buildings, from 17th-century adobes to newly built boutiques, have a unified look. This impressive visual harmony allows Santa Fe to thrive as a modern capital as well as a living relic with five centuries of history behind it. Capping it off are improbably perfect skies, radiant with a peculiarly enticing illumination that draws artists in their droves.
Artists have adored the scenes of Santa Fe and its surroundings since the early 20th century, although the location’s cultural heritage dates back some 12,000 years. Top tourist attractions in Santa Fe express its status as a great art city (it’s designated a UNESCO Creative City in Design, Crafts and Folk Art), with a huge concentration of galleries and art museums. The city’s creative side entwines with its oldest landmarks, well-preserved monuments to a long, slow passage of time punctuated by high-drama historic events. Since Santa Fe’s founding in 1610, it has been governed by Spain for more than 200 years (briefly interrupted by the Pueblo Revolt), by Mexico for 25 years, and by the United States since 1846. Hispanic, Anglo and Native American cultures not only coexist here, they meld into a unique gravitas deserving of the nation’s oldest capital.
Experiencing Santa Fe as a newcomer is unforgettable. Here are some highlights and recommendations from this first-time visitor, offered with the suggestion to add “The City Different” to your own list of most-desired destinations.
Where to Stay: Eldorado Hotel and Spa
One of the most compelling reasons to stay at the Eldorado Hotel and Spa in Santa Fe is its unrivaled location. The hotel is steps from Santa Fe Plaza, the historic and contemporary heart of the city from which all its streets radiate. All of historic downtown Santa Fe is within easy walking distance of the Eldorado, while the other tourist hubs of Museum Hill and the Santa Fe Railyard district are a short drive away.
The Eldorado Hotel and Spa opened in 1985, yet its take on the Santa Fe style of architecture, splendidly expanded to a grand scale, lends it a timeless aesthetic. The property occupies a full city block and blends into its surroundings as a harmonious downtown landmark. Inside, the rustic Pueblo Revival décor, which showcases handcrafted furnishings and local art, elegantly honors Santa Fe’s Native, Mexican, Spanish and Southwest American cultural influences. The visitor experience is first-class as well, earning the Eldorado the coveted AAA Four-Diamond designation.
Guest-room options include deluxe double or king rooms, with optional upgrades to balcony and kiva fireplace rooms. Premium suites are available in junior and one-bedroom configurations. Connecting rooms are available, too. Standard features in a deluxe guest room include a spacious living area with a plush armchair and coffee table, a Keurig coffee and tea setup, large work desk, refrigerator and large flat-screen television. This adds a welcome amount of room and comfy seating options beyond the one king or two double beds, and ample space to work, if needed. The dark wood furniture with iron hardware has a mission or craftsman vibe, and a color palette of nature-toned neutrals with burgundy and ochre accents reflects a sophisticated take on southwestern tradition. Subtle motifs such as the woven basket-textured wallpaper on an accent wall, and glossy black-and-white photos of Native pottery masterpieces, evoke the region’s heritage too.
When you stroll from your room to the rooftop pool, fitness center, spa or down to the lobby, notice the modern side of the local culture represented in vintage posters for local festivals, art shows and Santa Fe Opera events. Be sure to visit the newly opened rooftop pool. Even if you manage to resist taking a dip in the striking triple-tiered waterfall-edged pool and two spas, it’s worth a visit for the views alone. The sleek geometric lines of the pool complex with its loungers, bar and expansive deck space mirror the staggered flats of downtown rooftops. On Saturday mornings, guests are invited to a morning yoga session on the pool deck. For even more thorough relaxation, book a treatment at the hotel’s Nidah Spa, which offers massages and energy-balancing bodywork incorporating modern and ancient techniques.
Onsite drinking and dining options at Eldorado Hotel and Spa include Paxton’s Taproom, which serves local beers on tap along with cocktails and pizza. Agave Lounge offers signature margaritas and shared plates, and is also open for breakfast. CAVA Santa Fe lounge has a full bar, and on Friday and Saturday evenings presents live music.
Details:
309 W. San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
(800) 955-4455
Historic Highlights of Santa Fe
The city of Santa Fe dates to 1610, although the region it occupies has archeological evidence of communities residing there up to 12,000 years ago. Five historic districts preserve its oldest buildings, while a number of top-notch museums condense centuries of artifacts and information for visitors. It’s only possible to absorb a fraction of Santa Fe’s stories in one visit (or even many), but it’s well-worth doing so.
An essential first stop for learning about Santa Fe’s history is the Palace of the Governors, a one-story adobe structure spanning the north side of Santa Fe Plaza. Built by the Spanish colonial administration in 1610, it’s a National Historic Landmark and official National Treasure. Inside are galleries (currently under development as part of a long-term preservation project), a courtyard and the Palace Press, all part of the New Mexico History Museum. The museum spans two additional buildings, and its fascinating exhibits take visitors through 500 years of history from the earliest Native cultures to the outlaws, railroad workers and artists of the 20th century. Some stand-out exhibits include the installation of a barrage of arrows suspended from the ceiling at the entrance; the Segesser Hide, a rare set of 18th-century paintings of battle scenes on tanned bison hide; and the Frank Collection of devotional art, including exceptional Nuevomexicano santos.
Under the portal of the Palace of Governors is an arts and crafts market exclusively for Native American artists. Spots are strictly reserved for members of New Mexico tribes and pueblos, which guarantees the authenticity of unique goods including jewelry, ornaments and art pieces.
San Miguel Chapel, the oldest standing church structure in the United States, was constructed from adobe around 1610, partially destroyed and then rebuilt during and after the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. Visit to admire its original altar, jewel-studded bell dating to 1856, and an altar screen painted in 1798. Also in historic downtown is Santuario de Guadalupe, a cruciform adobe church built from 1776-96. It’s the oldest still-standing shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe in the United States. One of the oldest houses in the country, De Vargas Street House is another must-see for history buffs.
Visit Santa Fe’s Fantastic Museums
Santa Fe has many amazing museums, and most visitors will want to explore at least two or three of them. In the Historic Downtown district are the New Mexico History Museum, New Mexico Museum of Art and the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. The Museum Hill complex is home to the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, Museum of International Folk Art, and Santa Fe Botanical Garden on Museum Hill. It also has a café, museum shops and lovely views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains from its central plaza. El Museo Cultural is in the Santa Fe Railyard district, along with a farmers’ market.
If you want to visit several museums in Santa Fe, and especially if you’re also visiting other New Mexico destinations, look into the money-saving New Mexico Culture Pass.
I highly recommend the Museum of International Folk Art, which is one of the more kid-friendly museums in Santa Fe. Its collection amasses over 130,000 objects from over 100 countries – the largest international folk-art collection in the world. The largest space in the museum, the Girard Wing, hosts the permanent exhibition, “Multiple Visions: A Common Bond.” It is jam-packed with folk art pieces, toys, miniatures and textiles. Many collections are displayed by theme, rather than culture or chronology, which is a fascinating way to explore the differences and similarities in creativity across oceans and eras. Elsewhere in the museum are the Bartlett Wing, which displays artwork from 34 countries; the Hispanic Heritage Wing dedicated to Hispanic/Latino folk art; and the Gallery of Conscience, which examines how traditional and folk artists navigate social issues impacting their communities.
Anyone who appreciates the masterpieces of Santa Fe’s most-famous artist must visit the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Book tickets online in advance, and arrive for your designated time slot. Inside are nearly 150 paintings, plus pencil and charcoal drawings, pastels, watercolors and personal items belonging to Georgia O’Keeffe, such as her rock and bone collections. Explore O’Keeffe’s remarkable art chronologically, from her earliest sketches to later masterworks, from New York City to Mount Fuji, and of course her beloved Santa Fe. The artist made Santa Fe her permanent home in 1949 and lived there until her death. The city and its nature-rich surroundings profuse with life and death inspired many of O’Keeffe’s most important works.
Get Out of Town for a River-Rafting Adventure
While Santa Fe is packed with appeal, so are the wide-open landscapes that spread from its borders. After absorbing all you can from the city’s museums and history, why not go on a fun outdoor adventure a short drive away? I heartily recommend a float trip on the Rio Grande with Kokopelli Rafting, which is available to kids as young as 4. The company has hosted float trips and whitewater rafting trips on the Rio Grande and Rio Chama rivers for over 30 years. Options include full-day and half-day adventures on stretches from Class I to IV rapids.
The half-day Rio Grande Float was ideal for my family, which included two adults and two small children. It’s available May 1 to September 6. We floated down a mellow, relatively shallow stretch of the Rio Grande through a volcanic rock canyon. It was a relaxing, approximately 3-hour trip with a few exciting rapids, mid-river rocks to avoid, and glorious sunshine overhead. We heard about the natural history of the canyon, learned to identify its geological markers, and watched waterfowl flit in and out of the greenery tangled around shifting gravel banks. Our wonderful guide, Myriah, had an intuitive sense of when to command the raft with her oars, when to let the current take it, and when our steady course could cope with the erratic rowing efforts of small but enthusiastic children. Her skill outweighed our inexpert paddling, and we felt very safe under her much-appreciated guidance.
Kokopelli Rafting picked up our group, which later split into three rafts, each with its own guide, from the Rio Grande Visitor Center in Pilar, New Mexico. The spot is just over 1 hour by car north of Santa Fe, a drive that takes you through a series of smaller and smaller towns before reaching the scenic canyon. The company provides transport to and from the river, dry bags for essentials, life-jackets and helmets. Wear clothing and closed-toe footwear that can get wet – we didn’t get soaked aside from our feet, but splashes are inevitable. You also have the option to swim in the river, if you wish. Bring sunscreen, bottled water and a change of clothes (there are changing facilities at the visitor center).
Disclaimer: California News Press and its contributors received goods, services and/or other professional courtesies to facilitate this review. All opinions are those of the author.
You can read about another Southwest river adventure here.
